2 entries categorized "Resources: The Savoy Cocktail Book (book 1930)"

June 11, 2009

The Bibulo.us Guide to Your Home Bar: Part 3

Our strategic approach in this guide is laid out in a series of steps, let’s call them adventures, which build upon each other and which space out the expense of building your collection of tools, ingredients, and resources. The speed with which you take on these adventures is up to your budget and time, but our goal is for each one to provide an immediate reward and a new array of possibilities.

Through these adventures you will be introduced to the core set of classic cocktails and techniques. Many of the tools, ingredients and other resources described are available through our shopping links.

The first adventure, Tabula Rasa, introduced the Old Fashioned.

In the second, Waltz Time, we focused on the Martini.


Adventure #3: In Her Steam and Her Steel

Possibly the best cocktail in the world, but maybe we feel a little too much passion for the Manhattan. Give it a try, as it really should be made, and see what you think.

Ingredients: rye, sweet vermouth, aromatic bitters, lemon twist or cherry or flamed orange peel.

New techniques: Flaming Orange Peel, Batching Drinks.

Shopping:

  • Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth (~$8)
  • Luxardo Gourmet Maraschino Cherries (~$17, this may sound like a lot to pay for cherries but they are truly astonishingly good and there are a whole lot of them jammed into this jar; it’s worth every penny)
  • A really good garnish knife (if you don’t already have a paring knife you love & can use very safely) Consider a Santoku style which is large enough to discourage you from dangerously cutting fruit in your hand and which has an edge design that makes it easier to start a cut on a firm curved surface like a lime.
  • A couple very fresh oranges with a nice strong orange scent on the skin (indicating plenty of orange oils).

Preparation:

Find a safe small candle holder such as might be used in a bar or restaurant.

Get some toothpicks.

Light the candle & place it on your bar surface but a little bit out of your way, resting on a saucer with a bit of water in it.

Making the drink:

  1. Wash your hands.
  2. Rinse the lemon and the orange.
  3. Chill three glasses if you don’t have them already cold in the freezer.
  4. Set out the cutting mat, rye, sweet vermouth, orange bitters, lemon, cherries, orange, mixing container, jigger, barspoon, Hawthorn strainer, channel knife and garnish knife.
  5. Measure & add .5 oz x 3 = 1.5 oz sweet vermouth to the mixing container.
  6. Shake a dash (a “dash” means its okay if it’s several drops) of orange bitters into the mixing container. Do this twice more because you’re making three servings.
  7. Measure & add 1 oz x 3 = 3 oz sweet vermouth.
  8. Stir with ice (remember to add more ice because your liquid level is higher in the mixing container).
  9. Strain evenly into the 3 chilled glasses. (Try to pour an ounce into each and then even them up in small pours as you dispense the rest of the liquid. Notice how the melt from the ice has increased the fluid beyond the added ingredients.)
  10. Move a glass somewhat away from the others so that the lemon oil doesn’t spray across them & add a small lemon twist.
  11. Move the second glass near the first and use your barspoon to gently drop one cherry from the jar into it.
  12. Take the orange and, holding on the cutting mat end up, use the garnish knife to slice off a stripe of the outer skin, about 1” wide and 2” long, trying not to squeeze it as you handle it.
  13. Light a toothpick in the candle (we recommend using toothpicks rather than matches in order to avoid the sulfur smell) and, holding the flame about 3” above & away from the drink, pick up the orange peel strip delicately (like an eggshell, as Dale DeGroff says) by the edges, angle it towards the drink about an inch further away from the drink than the flame and squeeze. The orange oils should be expressed, passing through the flame & igniting before falling onto the drink. Drop the toothpick in the water in the saucer and throw away the peel.
  14. Not to worry, this takes a little practice. Read the description from King Cocktail himself and try again if you didn’t get a nice burst the first time.
  15. Rinse your bar tools.
  16. Compare your drinks. We’d recommend the lemon twist version first, since you have had a rye drink with that garnish before (the Old Fashioned). Next the orange version, since it’s going to be closer in flavor to the lemon version. Lastly try the one with the cherry. Notice the impact of the different garnishes. Which works best for you with this rye, this vermouth, and these proportions?

Progress report:

You can make multiples of a drink at once. You have a new garnishing technique. Since you have oranges, you can try making orange twists with your channel knife and orange zests. With those and the cherries, your world of garnishes continues to expand. You now also have a new kind of vermouth. Compare half an ounce of each served in room temperature glasses (so you can really taste the differences). You’re learning to analyze your ingredients and to see where particular ones perform well or poorly in a given recipe.

Where you can go from here with these skills:
Try the three Manhattans again sometime using Angostura aromatic bitters instead of orange bitters.

Revisit the Martini concept using gin and sweet vermouth. 2:1 with Angostura bitters and a lemon twist is an Artillery or with an orange peel instead of the lemon it’s a Sunshine. 3:1 with no bitters and a lemon twist is a Blackstone. 2:1 with orange bitters is a Rex Cocktail. 1:1 with both aromatic and orange bitters is a Hearst Cocktail. 2:1 with Peychaud’s bitters (which you’d have to go buy since we didn’t already send you shopping for them) is a Hilliard Cocktail. 2:1:1 bringing in sweet AND dry vermouth with aromatic bitters is a Farmer’s Cocktail or with orange peel it becomes a Kup’s Indispensable or at 8:1:1 with the lemon twist again it’s a Perfect. 3:1:1 with 2 dashes of orange bitters and an orange peel is an R.C.A. Special Cocktail. 3:1:1 with a dash each of aromatic and orange bitters is a Wild Rose Cocktail.

As you can see gin + vermouth(s) + maybe some bitters + citrus peel garnish of some sort is the foundation of a panoply of cocktails (indeed, much of the Savoy Cocktail Book).

For vermouth variations using rye whiskey, try a Dry Manhattan, Perfect Manhattan, or a Jumbo.

You can also try some other recipes using these other new ingredients, with specific recommendations where we have them noted:
Honolulu or Rosemary or Brown University (buy some bourbon, say Four Roses (~$22) or Buffalo Trace or Bulleit (both ~$23))
One Of Mine Cocktail (squeeze some juice from one of those partially skinned oranges)
Smiler (also using some orange juice)
Martinez (buy Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur(~$28))
Move Over Cocktail (buy Cherry Heering (~$24))
Rob Roy (buy Dewar’s blended scotch, either White Label or 12 year & check the prices  since the bottle twice the size might be only 25% more expensive (~$21-28))
Black Manhattan (buy Averna (~$29))

April 13, 2008

The Manhattan

Neyah's Jerry Thomas ManhattanThe Manhattan is one of the archetypal classic cocktails and it is here we begin the bibulo.us journey.

It is basically some whiskey, usually less sweet vermouth, plus a dash of some kind of bitters. Traditionally it is made with rye, the spiciness of which plays nicely with the flavors of the vermouth. It originated in New York, probably in the 1870s, but beyond that there is disagreement over its precise origin.

The personal experience of the bibulo.us authors is to recommend Carpano Antica Formula as the vermouth most suited to the drink.

Recipes:

1884 How To Mix Drinks - Bar Keeper's Handbook [by George Winter?] (cited by Wondrich 2007)

2 or 3 dashes of Peruvian Bitters
1 to 2 dashes (.5 tsp) of gum syrup
One-half wine glass (1.5 oz) of whiskey
One-half wine glass (1.5 oz) of vermouth
(no garnish mentioned)

1892 The Flowing Bowl by William "The Only William" Schmidt (cited by Wondrich 2007)

Half a tumblerful of cracked ice
2 dashes (.5 tsp) of gum
2 dashes of bitters
1 dash of absinthe
2/3 drink (2 oz) of whiskey
1/3 drink (1 oz) of vino vermouth
(a little (1/4 tsp) marschino may be added)

1895 Modern American Drinks by George J. Kappeler

Fill mixing glass half-full fine ice
2 dashes gum syrup
2 dashes Peyschaud [sic] or Angostura bitters
1 half jigger Italian vermouth
1 half jigger whiskey
Mix, strain into cocktail glass
Garnish with piece of lemon peel or a cherry

Dry version: without syrup or cherry.
Extra dry version: dry version with French vermouth instead of Italian

1907 The World's Drinks and How To Mix Them by William "Cocktail" Boothby

2 dashes of orange bitters
2 drops of Angostura bitters
1/2 jiggerful of Italian vermouth
1/2 jiggerful of bourbon whiskey
Stir, strain and twist & squeeze a lemon peel over the top.

A variant with a faint touch of Curacao apparently was all the rage among the science community in the early 20th century:

1910 The Scientific American Cyclopedia of Formulas Partly Based Upon the 28th Ed. of Scientific American Cyclopedia of Receipts, Notes and Queries by Albert Allis Hopkins

Vermouth wineglassful
whisky wineglassful
simple syrup 30 drops
Angostura bitters 10 drops
Curacoa 6 drops
a little shaved ice
lemon peel 1 small strip

Put all the ingredients except the lemon rind into a large tumbler
cover the top closely shake well and strain into a wineglass
Place the strip of lemon peel on the top and serve.

1930 The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock

2 dashes curacao or maraschino
1 pony rye whisky
1 wineglass vermouth (mixed)
3 dashes Angostura bitters
2 small lumps of ice
Shake, strain, garnish with one quarter slice of lemon.

or

1 dash Angostura bitters
2/3 Canadian Club whisky
1/3 Ballor Italian vermouth
Shake, strain, garnish with cherry.

or

Sweet version: equal parts Italian vermouth and rye whisky, no garnish.
Dry version: half rye whisky, 1/4 each French & Italian vermouth.

1933 The American Bar Guide by R.C. Miller (2nd edition)

1/2 wine glass whiskey
1/2 wine glass vermouth
2 dashes bitters
3 dashes gum syrup
Strain in cocktail glass.

1935 The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book by Albert Stevens Crockett

Dash of orange bitters
One-half Italian vermouth
One-half rye whiskey (stir)
Serve with maraschino cherry

or

2 dashes orange bitters
2 pinches sugar
One-half Italian vermouth
One-half Irish whiskey

1946 The Stork Club Bar Book by Lucius Beebe

2/3 oz rye whisky
1/3 oz Italian vermouth
Decorate with maraschino cherry, stir, and serve.

1998 Cocktail: The Drinks Bible for the 21st Century by Paul Harrington

2 oz rye
1/2 oz sweet vermouth
1 to 2 dashes Angostura bitters (optional)
Stir, strain, garnish with maraschino cherry.

2002 Esquire Drinks by David Wondrich

Stir well with cracked ice
2 oz good rye
1 oz Italian vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters or orange bitters
Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with [lemon] twist or maraschino cherry.

2006 The Art of the Bar by Jeff Hollinger & Rob Schwartz

"Uptown" Manhattan
2 oz bourbon (preferably Maker's Mark)
1 oz Carpano Antica sweet vermouth
Dash of Angostura bitters
Dash of orange bitters
3 brandied cherries for garnish
Orange twist for garnish

Robert Hess' The Cocktail Spirit video demonstration

Steve & Paul's Cocktail Buzz episode pairing the drink with bacon-wrapped dates

Chris Doig's Brilliant Cocktails video demonstration

Other useful references:

History & recipe variants in Imbibe! by David Wondrich, pages 236-243

Wikipedia entry

Wikitender entry

Bibulo.us twittering

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  • The Librarian
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  • You can write to Dinah & Joe at this domain
  • Photo in Bibulo.us banner by Courtney Patubo


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